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Tongue lies at the heart of one of Sutherland's most dramatic landscapes and is dominated by the crenellated ridge of Ben Loyal, 'Queen of Scottish Mountains' (2,509ft). Castle Varrich, a 16th century Clan Mackay fortress stands sentinel here above the waters of the Kyle of Tongue.

To the north lies Skerray, a crofting township 'between the rocks and the sea' famous for the restored thatched buildings that house Jimson's shop and the Skerray Historical Association museum. In the adjacent garden centre visitors can admire a flower that is nurtured in Skerray, the chrysanthemum 'Highland White Dream'.

A mile offshore from Skerray is Island Roan, 'the island of the seals'. In the aftermath of the Sutherland Clearances during the early years of the 19th century, evicted tenants settled here. They built a vibrant community that thrived for more than 120 years. Island Roan was evacuated in 1938 but the happy memories of those that lived and worked there linger still.

A causeway crosses the Kyle of Tongue to hamlets on the west shore, Melness, Skinnet, Talmine and Achininver. Climb from Achininver to the modest top of Ben Hutig (1,338ft). The view south is magnificent; across Moine moorlands to Ben Hope (3,040ft), Scotland's most northerly Munro - Scottish mountains over 3,000ft in height - guarding Loch Hope, one of Europe's most prolific sea-trout fisheries. Time to stand and stare.