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The Royal Burgh of Wick is the county town of Caithness. Its buildings cluster the shores of turbulent Wick Bay. The harbour was the most important herring fishing port in Europe in the 19th century. The fishings employed 5,000 and so many vessels crowded the quays that it was possible to walk from one side of the harbour to the other dry shod.

Within a few miles of Wick are impressive castles. Sinclair and Girnigoe, on a finger of rock above the sea. Old Wick Castle, one of the oldest fortresses in Scotland, dating from the 12th century. Keiss Castle, a slim tower dating from the end of the 16th century. Ackergill Tower, an exclusive conference centre now, but once used to billet Oliver Cromwell's soldiers when they "pacified" Caithness in the 17th century.

The slow-flowing Wick River can be a wonderfully productive salmon stream after heavy rain. Some seasons see upwards of 500 fish caught. It drains Loch Watten, a pre-eminent trout fishery with fine quality wild fish. During autumn and winter months the shores of the loch are home to hundreds of migrant geese and whooper swans.

No matter where you travel in this treasured landscape, cathedral-like skies will vault your journey. Nowhere more so than at the Grey Cairns of Camster, mighty Neolithic burial chambers which have guarded the moorlands to the south of Watten for more than 5,000 years.

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