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The Vikings named Sutherland, Suderland, their southland. They also named the most dramatic mountain here, Suilven (2399ft) Sul val, the pillar mountain. As they rowed past Lochinver, the sandstone tower of Casteal Liath on Suilven reared over them. Thus, the pillar mountain.

Lochinver is a busy fishing port and home to Highland Stoneware, one of Scotland's most successful arts/business ventures. The company design and manufacturer breathtakingly lovely pottery that is exported throughout the world.

Just as breathtaking is the walk up the River Kirkaig to view Kirkaig Falls, a 60ft high shining torrent after heavy rain. The Kirkaig is a fine salmon stream, difficult of access in its upper reaches and all the more exciting for being so. Relax at the end of the day with a visit to Achins Bookshop and café at the start of the track.

Drive the B869, a twisting road that encircles the Stoer Peninsula. This route serves the townships of Nedd, Drumbeg, Clashnessie, Stoer and Clachtoll and gives access to the beautiful campsite at Achmelvich. An offshoot from this road leads to the Bay of Cuilkein and, after a short walk, to the east shore of Loch Cul Fraioch the loch behind the heather. Catching supper here is assured.

This is the North Assynt Estate, owned by the crofters who work the land. It was bought by them in an epoch-making purchase that forever changed public attitudes to land ownership in the Highlands of Scotland.

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