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The lonely A836 road from Lairg to Altnaharra is not a good place to break down because this is one of the least populated areas of Sutherland. Happily, at its centre lies the Crask Inn; famous for being one of the coldest places in UK during winter months, but just as famous for the warmth of the welcome travellers receive and for the quality of its food.

Two wonderful mountains dominate this wild landscape: Ben Klibreck (3,154ft) to the east, and the corries of Ben Hee (2,854ft) to the west. In between, at the head of Strath Tirry, lies an area of Flow Country, much altered by insensitive commercial forestry, but still exciting to visit.

Greenshank arrive here from North Africa to breed in the spring. They use the same nesting sites each year, often close to an obvious rock for ease of identification. Golden plover and dunlin join them. Buzzard, hen harriers and peregrine rule the moor. This is also wildcat country, and the trout-filled lochs are natural larders for playful otters.

Make the Crask Inn your base to explore this magical garden. A good track leads east from here up Strath Chraisg to the start-point of an expedition across the long ridge of Ben Klibreck. Or find a sheltered place to rest your back and read a book. Or, watching the clouds sweep by, just sit and think.