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As the road north from Inverness descends Struie Hill in Ross-shire, visitors catch a breathtaking glimpse across the waters of the Kyle into the heart of Sutherland. Range after range of mountains march north and west, dominated by Ben More Assynt, Sutherland's highest peak.

Ahead lies the distinctive shape of Bonar Bridge, the original structure being built by Thomas Telford after the Meikle Ferry disaster in 1809. When the overcrowded ferryboat sank whilst carrying passengers to the Lammas Fair at Tain, 99 people drowned.

Another disaster occurred earlier at the head of the Kyle, the Battle of Carbisdale in 1650. The Duke of Montrose, fighting to restore King Charles 11 was defeated by government troops, caught and executed.

Near the site of this Ross-shire battle is Carbisdale Castle, built in 1914 for the Dowager Duchess of Sutherland. When her husband, the Duke of Sutherland died, the Sutherland family hotly disputed the terms of his will. The building of the castle was part of the Dowager's settlement.

She was so outraged by the affair that only three sides of the tower were fitted with clocks. The one facing north into Sutherland was left blank as she refused to give her relatives even the 'time of day'. Carbisdale Castle is now the world's most luxurious Youth Hostel.

Ross-shire people suffered during the 19th century Highland Clearances. The church at Croick bears testament to their sad fate. When the Rosses of Glencalvie were evicted, they gathered in Croick Churchyard and some wrote their names on the windows of the church: "Glencalvine people was in the church here May 24, 1845…"

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